San José
Capital
The capital is mostly a transit stop, but the Mercado Central, Teatro Nacional and Barrio Escalante restaurants justify half a day.
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Travel Guide — Costa Rica
Pacific coast, volcanoes & cloud forest
10 places
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Costa Rica panorama
Costa Rica is a nature trip first and a city trip never — the draw is national parks, volcanoes and beaches. My time was on the central Pacific coast around Quepos and Manuel Antonio, plus the interior highlands.
A rental 4WD opens the country up — distances look short on the map but mountain roads are slow. Public "directo" buses cover the main routes cheaply if you’re patient.
SJO sits in the Central Valley — most people overnight near the airport and head straight to the coast or Arenal the next morning.
The coastal highway via Jacó is paved and scenic; Quepos is the gateway town with buses shuttling to the park entrance.
About 3 hours northwest of San José — shuttle vans between La Fortuna, Monteverde and Manuel Antonio are the backpacker standard.
Everything I visited and would send a friend to. Starred entries are the ones I'd put at the top of the list.
Capital
The capital is mostly a transit stop, but the Mercado Central, Teatro Nacional and Barrio Escalante restaurants justify half a day.
Quepos, Puntarenas
The country’s most-visited park — rainforest trails ending on white-sand beaches, with sloths, capuchins and scarlet macaws along the flat main path.
Arrive at opening to see wildlife before the heat and crowds; bring swimwear for the park beach.
Parrita, Puntarenas
The quiet string of Pacific beaches north of Quepos — estuary birdwatching, empty sand and the Palo Seco mangroves.
My saved pin on this stretch — far quieter than Manuel Antonio.
La Fortuna, Alajuela
The near-perfect volcanic cone that was active until 2010 — lava fields, a lake at its base and trails through regenerating forest.
La Fortuna
A 3 km trail crossing sixteen suspension bridges through the rainforest canopy with the volcano as a backdrop.
Go in the morning mist — the canopy feels completely different than at midday.
Puntarenas
The famous misty highland reserve protecting quetzals, orchids and the continental divide — walk it on a guided morning tour for the best sightings.
La Fortuna
A 70 m waterfall dropping into a jade pool at the forest edge — 500 steps down and the same back up.
La Fortuna
Arenal heats a whole valley of thermal rivers — from free access points at Río Chollín to resort pools like Tabacón and Baldi.
Everywhere
Family-run diners called sodas serve the national plate — casado: rice, beans, plantains, salad and a protein for a few dollars.
Central Valley / La Fortuna
Working plantations around the Central Valley and La Fortuna run tours from bean to cup — the Don Juan and Café Britt tours are the classics.